Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Today is the 14th anniversary of the shoot down, and there are many events taking place in Miami to commemorate this event. You can read about it in September 2010 in Seagull One: The Amazing True Story of Brothers to the Rescue
Woke up at 6:15, coffee on the terrace at 6:30, yoga in the yoga shack at 7am. We saw the sunrise as we stretched our bodies into submission, gentle yoga outside in the shack, the frogs croaking and birds singing and the cool breeze swaying the beautiful flowers all around us. Then we had breakfast at the restaurant, to get ready for a day of relaxation.
Spent most of the day on our terrace, just reading and relaxing, the temperature is perfect. We ordered lunch on our terrace and enjoyed it as we watched the employees of the Four Seasons in their blue pants, blue tunics, and pointed straw hats take care of the rice paddies and the grounds of the resort. From our terrace we can see other guests walking on the paths, swimming in the two infinity pools; we can see Mr. Yong and his stepbrother being taken to their shack to eat grass. These are the two water buffaloes on premises that guests can ride if they wish. One is pink and the other grey and they are so clean you wonder if they, too, go to the spa. In fact, they are bathed twice daily. I heard two little girls laughing with one of the staff down by the buffalo shack (they had ridden Mr. Yong and his stepbrother earlier), enjoying the day as part of the Kids Club program they have here. The girls and her parents took a year off to travel the world, homeschool their girls, and appreciate that life is not “about what kind of earings you wear; look at me, now I don’t wear any!” Oh, to go back in time…
Prayer warriors, I did my rosary but not in a Catholic Church as I had intended (I would have had to go into town and search—we’re in the city of 700 temples) but I sent up my petitions from the Church of God, the great outdoors, the universal temple. I figured you can’t get any closer to heaven than the Four Seasons at Chiang Mai.
We had lunch served on our terrace, and I mean, served. They didn’t just drop a tray, they set it up for us, pulled out our chairs, and sat us down. Again, I was reminded of the wonderful lunches we were brought on our jungle terrace in Londolozi, South Africa, back when Merrill Lynch used to pay for these kinds of trips. Amps, I’m trying not to itemize but when I get back home and Quicken this baby, I’m going to need an IV.
After lunch we continued to read and relax and I went to the pool to finish Snow Flower and the Secret Fan, crying my way through the last twenty pages. If the movie does any justice to the book, it will be a hit. The story is so powerful!
Steve stayed in and took a long bath and broke a ceramic bottle with bath gel and I got back and stepped on a piece and bled all over the beautiful marble floor. It wasn’t that dramatic but when the turn-down staff came in, they asked was I OK because they saw all the blood. Here the shampoo, gels, and creams are not in the little plastic bottles that one takes home and then forgets to use and then takes them on trips to other hotels where you steal some more and take them home. Here the liquids are in beautiful ceramic bottles that you want to take home, but don’t.
Had a drink on the hotel terrace—I’ve discovered Thai wine and it’s delicious! We took the hotel shuttle into town and were dropped into the middle of the Night Market. Yes, Ana Rasco, another market, at night! I bought Ryan a little frog that you rub a stick on its back and it makes the sound of the frogs here, like Thai-style Puertorriquen coquis. Except here, they eat the frogs and we would learn all about that at the market the next day.
We took a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled converted mini old school mail truck, open air, motored, adorable thing that goes tuk-tuk) to The House Restaurant, which was a pretty funky place, full of little nooks and rooms to eat in and the food was OK. Still haven’t had “the best of Thailand” dish.
Took the shuttle back to the hotel.
THURSDAY February 25, 2010
Woke up at 6am because we were going to the market at 7 to buy the food for our cooking class. The market just down the road from the hotel would have been closing by 9 because it opens at 3am, when local Thais go to buy what they will make their families for breakfast. It’s not just pop a waffle into the microwave; it’s make congee, the rice dish they have instead of bread, and vegetables and other things. Our companions were this lovely young married couple, she from Ireland and he from India. Their new home would be Dubai. There’s this whole other side of the world which is everyone’s normal, much like North and South America, the Caribbean, and Europe are to us; their normal is the other side of the globe. People talk of places like Hong Kong and Singapore and Dubai and the sixteen countries in India and all the other ---aysia’s like we talk about California and Washington and the Bahamas. It’s fascinating.
The Thai love pork above all other meats, they use every single part of the port, in fact, the dish we would eat later that afternoon was made of pork neck. I had never thought of pigs having necks, just another column of muscle fat from their shoulders (I’ve eaten pork shoulders) to their noses, yet, Miss Piggy did always wear pearls. So we started with all the vegetables and I forget their names, but when you smell them you know now what is the unique scent in most Thai food. One root, galangal, is the most important. The market was immense, with sections for each type of animal, and then a little stand with the frogs, live, trying to hop out of their fish next basket. They looked just like the ones in my yard, except these would be someone’s dinner. Again, they use ALL of the frog, not just the very chi-chi French frog legs. They use the heads, the necks (again with the necks) the legs, etc. We saw the soups of frog parts, soups with innards of every kind of animal. They smelled good, but well, just taste, don’t ask. We got to try the famous Chiang Mai sausage (again, don’t ask) and it was delicious. We had sticky rice with sausage for breakfast, then we went to other stalls and tasted Thai Dunkin Donuts, and other fried yumminesses. Coconut is big, of course, there’s cononut milk in so many dishes, and we bought the coconut milk, just pressed, that we would be using for our dishes.
Cooking at the Four Seasons begins with a prayer in front of the spirit house of the school. Inside are grandparents, the spirits they want to appease. They ask for good cooking, no cuts, no bleeding, good food. After the prayer by one of the sous-chefs, we were given incense sticks to place in front of the spirit house so that our prayers would rise up to them. Our guide at the market had brought an offering for the spirit house, something with chicken blood, which apparently is used more often than we would have ever thought of (nor want to again) in the coloring and flavoring of many Thai dishes..
The cooking school at the Four Seasons rivals anything you’ve seen on Iron Chef or the like. Open air, no walls, and part of the beauty are the immense extractors. Each station has its own set of woks and knives and utensils, as well as four gas burners. We cooked what I had eaten for dinner the night before, a delicious chicken curry with noodles, as well as three other dishes. Then we had a vegetable carving station, so whenever anyone needs red pepper flowers, I can do it. We were given certificates, aprons, and a set of place settings each, which I’ll use when I return home and cook my Thai meal. The only drawback with cooking all this food is that we got to eat it. We ate the first meal with gusto, not realizing that we would cook and eat four more dishes, which of course, we couldn’t even begin to put a dent in. I was so full I almost had to cancel my facial at the spa.
AT 6pm we were invited to the Chef’s table cocktail, where we got to drink more Thai wine and eat again! There was a fourteen course dinner that evening, but we just couldn’t do it, so we went to the hotel restaurant for a light meal and a show at 7:30pm, which was pretty tame—only two female dancers. I wanted the whole “Run, Eliza, Run!” from the King and I.
The new fruit I’ve discovered and love is dragonfruit. It’s a pink fruit a little smaller than a cantaloupe with a crazy flower on top that makes it look like a dragon’s head. Inside it’s white with black polka-dots, the consistency of watermelon. Delicious. The mango here is superb, but not quite as good as the one in my back yard.
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 26, 2010
Very hard to leave this morning. ACTIVE THAILAND guide Pan (“like Peter Pan,” he said) and his driver picked us up at 8am, and off we went to trek in the forest. But first we were in for a long, long, drive up the mountain. Our two days were spent in the Doi Inthanon National Park. Doi means summit or peak or something. The Doi Inthanon is the highest point in all of Thailand and we were there. The view is supposed to be spectacular—you can see the whole country. But not that day because it was a little hazy. It’s very dry and the trekking was difficult because it was so dry, slippery, and full of fallen dried leaves.
On our long trip to Doi Inthanon, we noticed many 7-11’s (the Starbucks of Thailand, even thought there are plenty of Starbuck’s, too.) There is nothing you can’t find here, except a nice toilet at a rest stop, but even though they are usually ceramic holes in the ground with a place for each foot (then you have to squat—don’t try it from a half-knee bend position), they tend to be cleaner than bathrooms in US gas stations. So that’s saying a lot. Next to the ceramic things there is a small tile-lined basin with water, and a big plastic ladle. After you do your business (and it’s really hard for some people to do the second kind of business in such a compromising position) you ladle the water and flush it down. Holes in the ground save money on plumbing, I’m sure. You also don’t have to waste time lining the toilet with layers of paper that keep falling off. It’s just squat and flush.
There are Costco’s here, too, my friends in Miami. And I’m sure in a few years there will be Walmarts. Here Costco is Carrefour and other names, but they’re here.
The Royal Project is one of the King’s special projects to try to get the tribal people to stop growing opium. So now they are organic farmers and it has really cut down the opium trade in the mountains.
Our first stop on the trekking tour was the one-hour elephant ride. Five minutes is all you need. There was a cute baby elephant who reminded me of Ryan. He came up to me and wrapped his trunk around my leg (confusing it for his mother’s) and left baby elephant snot all over it.
Went to the Holy Relics Pagoda inside the National Park, containing relics (called a stupa) of the last King of Chiang Mai, King Inthawichayanon. Then visited the twin pagodas of King Bhumibol Adulyadei and Quyeen Sirkit (I got this off google cos I had already forgotten). The pagodas enshrine Buddha’s ashes and Buddha images and the scenery is spectacular, especially the gardens.
Then we started trekking, real hiking, crossing small rocky rivers on bamboo bridges (I have pictures). We passed Karen women (this is the tribe of people we would stay with) in the fields with their water buffalo, Karen tribes people preparing flowers for the market (again, part of the Royal Project, even though the Karen people were the only tribe to never grow opium).
Arriving at the village we were greeted with the screams, the chilling, horrific screams of a pig about to be slaughtered. There was a wedding in town. Pigs know those screams, and when it isn’t you, you kind of relax into your tether and eat some more slop cos it ain’t your day. All the pigs we passed, and each Karen home has a pig on the ground floor (the ground floor being the actual ground, since all houses are on stilts), gave us a snort of acknowledgement: Welcome. And just in case you’re wondering, I’m not dinner—at least not tonight
The homes in this village are “very simple” as Pan pointed out. Wooden shacks with bamboo walls, outhouses, a pig on the ground floor, a motorcycle in the “car port” and cable TV. Well, I don’t know about cable, but they did have satellite dishes. The village got electricity a few years ago and the kids really wanted TV. There is an unbroken white cord that goes through every house and building in the village that keeps the people connected. This particular village was Buddhist but half the Karen people are Christian. We saw a small church in on of the villages. The married women wear these colorful hand woven sarongs and un-matching colorful v-neck big tops. Underneath they wear sweatpants, of the “cuff at the ankle” variety, and under the big tops polo shirts. Then the outfit is put together with a windbreaker. They were all dressed the same. The unmarried women wear white; the men and children wear whatever they want.
As we walked through the village I wondered where we were sleeping. Pan was never very explicit in what we were doing, what we were eating, or where we were going. We were OK with that. I spotted a nice wooden house down the dirt road and inside I said, “I hope that’s where we’re staying.” Well, it was! It was all wood and the prettiest house on the hill. Our hostess, Yapoh I believe her name was, seemed to me like the head woman of the village. She was probably in her 20s but she was “una electrica.” She had a 7-11 at her home, too. It was actually a little wooden store with things like eggs, and canned goods, and a refrigerator. Her children attended boarding school in town. It may sound very high class, but she cooks in the middle of her one room shack. You might think these people are poor, but they’re not. All the men work, either growing flowers, or farming, or whatever, and they have a middle-man that buys their products. The women stay home with the kids and work all day because there is no plumbing so water for everything has to be hauled up the steps. So, they may have no possessions, but they are not poor.
Less than an hour after our arrival, another mother, maybe 18 years old, came carrying her three year-old daughter whose lip was bleeding. I approached her and asked if she needed a bandaid (of course, using Pan to translate) but when I looked at the little girl, who was not crying but had an unforgettable look of anguish on her face, I noticed that she wasn’t just bleeding a little on the outside of her lip, just a little line of red between her lower lip and chin: she had bitten through her entire lip. I saw the inside and cringed. The little girl, who was carried by her mother, looked and me, took a careful deep breath and then slowly lowered her check on her mother’s shoulder, with such deliberate care so as not to touch any part of the lower half of her face. She was not crying, could not cry, because she was in so much pain. The accident had probably happened an hour earlier because mouth wounds usually bleed terribly. Her wound was clean and there was only a hug swollen lip and all in the insides of the inside of her lip coming out. On the outside was just a small stripe of not blood, but the mark where her entire bottom half of teeth had gone through.
I went into Imperialist-Aggressive-American-Interventionist mode. I had to save this child and I wanted the Marines called in. I wanted to throw opinions and money at the situation and get this little darling the best medical care in the world. I would call the Pentagon, arrange for a helicopter transport, and then take her to Disneyworld. The mother, of course, went to look for husband and then take her child to a clinic where they had government-sponsored medical care. I went and had a good cry.
If I would have gone into Cuban mode, I would have said, “Dame esa niña, mijita, que tu no sabes lo que estás haciendo,” then taken the child and the van and gone off…somewhere.
“Lily, this happens all the time in the village,” said Pan. And I told him I knew that, and it happens in America all the time, too, but he didn’t understand that I thought I knew what was better for that girl than her own mother. He didn’t know how metida and controlling I am. Pan didn’t understand that I had just experienced a defining moment where I recognized how I thought, momentarily and in the heat of the moment, that I was somehow superior because I had more education and money. All mothers know what’s best, no matter their circumstances.
The next morning the little girl came back to our hostesses’ house, with a swollen lip but doing just fine.
After that, I thought I should continue to try to put myself to good use. I wanted to help Yapoh make up our room: sleeping bags, comforters, and a mosquito net on the wood floor, but she wouldn’t let me. I wanted to haul up some water and help her cook; she motioned big with her hands and I thought it meant, come on up, but I think she really meant, I’ll do the cooking around here. Actually, Pan and the driver made our gourmet Thai meal. What was weird about this adventure was that Steve and I always ate alone, whether at the roadside restaurant, or on the floor of our “bed and breakfast.” Pan said they never ate with the guests and I didn’t know how to take that. Were we “unclean”? Well, we were certainly dirty and dusty, but was it more?
For dinner, we had fried pork (maybe the one that greeted us) sliced in what looked like shoestring French fries, but they were pork, and vegetables and rice and chicken curry. Yapoh came up the stairs while we were eating and we gestured how much we loved the meal and she gestured back and we nodded and said thank you. She brought up more rice.
The village had a “headman,” an elected person, and he had access to a PA system that sounded throughout the village. He liked to make announcements.
There was no sobremesa, being that there was no mesa, so we read and then went to sleep early.
Buddhism vs. Animism vs. Shamanism. We (I) continued with the Buddhism topic with Pan. It’s not amazing the similarities with Catholicism on certain things. In some temples, depending on the holiday, they change Buddha’s outfit; in Catholic churches they do this with Mary’s statues. Incense and candles and holy water, praying before images, honoring certain monks/honoring certain saints. The elaborate temples; the elaborate churches.
The story of Buddha is that his mother was impregnated when a white elephant (this their reverence for elephants, particularly white ones) with a lotus flower came in through her side. She gave birth while holding on to a tree (forget which kind) and then Buddha (Sidharttha) came out and took seven steps. And Catholics have a problem with the virgin birth?!
Some Buddhists mix their beliefs with animism. This village had a Shaman, and the villagers practiced different rites than the Buddhists we had seen in Bangkok proper. I meanwhile, was trying to get a handle on what was PURE Buddhism. So Steve made this very wise comment: in order to understand Buddhism is, you have to understand the teachings; look at the teacher, not the followers. Aha!
Imagine what it’s like for Buddhists when they see Christianity: 12,000 Protestant denominations and then the Catholics! Who is confusing whom? Even though in our faith they’re supposed to “know we are Christians by our love, by our love,” it doesn’t usually make us that appealing. War is not such a great expression of love. What I have noticed in Thailand, whether it be because of Buddha or not, is the gentle nature of the people. And no, it’s not just at the five star resorts, because I have yet to see an angry cab driver, or a villager with attitude. The people of Thailand are peaceful, kind, mild-mannered, well-mannered, friendly, and genuine. Maybe it has something to do with never having been colonized.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 27, 2010
“They eat everything here [Thailand] but they don’t eat dog,” Pan told us. Thank goodness cos there was a really strange breed of dog at our hostess’ house.
The roosters started crowing before dawn, but we actually slept pretty well on the floor. It went down to 60 at night so the weather was perfect. At dawn, another pig went screaming to his death, also for the wedding.
We visited two waterfalls: Wachirathan—huge--and Mae Klang Water Fall, smaller yet still beautiful. Wachirathan waterfall, as well as most tourist spots in Thailand are just like in the US: gift shops and coffee shops and entrance fees. The difference in Thailand are the gardens and flowers surrounding all the tourist spots.
As we left the Karen village we noticed a small little town, developed for the eco-tourists, with little bungalows to sleep in, a little shop and small cafes. Amazing, out in the middle of nowhere, but Thailand is ready for tourists. Went to a small shop and bought a Karen village married woman outfit.
Chiang Mai has over 700 temples and we didn’t get to see not a one, because we were consumed by the sensual paganism of the Four Seasons. We did, however, visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of the four royal wats in the north, built in the 14th century. The chedi (a temple without a monk onboard) is all gold and glistens in the sun. Once a year they put the Buddha’s relics in a covered bowl and let water flow over it and everyone can come and collect this “holy water.” There was a monk sitting on a dais there, in his saffron robes, speaking with and blessing the youth with holy water. Seems at this temple they have “monk chats” some days, where you can just hang with them and ask questions. Monks can come in and out of the monkhood, not like priests who are in it for life. They have to beg for their food every day, and whatever they get, they bring back and someone cooks for them. That’s why they can’t be vegetarians because they have to eat whatever is given to them.
Buddhists usually cremate their dead, but the process usually doesn’t involve burning the bones down to ashes. “I have my niece’s bones at home,” said Pan.
We arrived at the Four Seasons with enough time to shower and change and make it on an earlier flight back to Bangkok.
Back at the Mandarin Oriental we were greeted with more flowers, then more orchids in the room and a note that Sunday and Monday were Makha Bucha Day, a holy day observed on the full moon day of the third lunar month, commemorating the spontaneous gathering of the first 1,250 of Lord Buddha’s disciples, and the sermon he gave that day. Can you imagine arriving at the Waldorf Astoria and having a note say something like: today and tomorrow businesses are shut down to honor the birth of Mohammad or the Resurrection of Jesus Christ? Wow.
We had some snacks and drinks at the Bamboo Bar in the hotel and went to bed early.
SUNDAY February 28, 2010
Went to the BEST YOGA CLASS I’ve ever been to while traveling, probably a lot better than most of the yoga in Miami. It ended with shavasana that included laughing! What a great way to start the day.
After breakfast we went to Mass at the Assumption Church right across from the hotel. It was packed! And it was packed with young people. Usually when we go to mass in cities around the world the only congregants are old ladies with rosaries and veils. The kiss of peace was a prayer-hand bow, which is a more germ-free method of peace-giving. It was the priest’s 80th birthday and they sang “Happy Birthday” after the service. What surprised me about the service was that more than half of the people stayed to pray afterwards.
I fear I’m headed for a Mercy Herold situation, where I buy all my gifts at the overpriced airport shops. It’s Sunday afternoon and I still haven’t bought any souvenirs, except for the plastic frog for Ryan.
After mass we went to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, and lit a candle for Noi and her health. We weren’t allowed inside the actual temple because of the holy day. The place was crowded with dignitaries, schools, groups, etc.
Then we went to Art’s neighborhood and walked everywhere he told us to walk, cursing the heat. It is SO hot!!!! We’ve been so spoiled by a cool winter in Miami and here it’s like a Miami August. Came back to the hotel early and just relaxed.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Wednesday to Sunday, Feb 24-28
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Today is the 14th anniversary of the shoot down, and there are many events taking place in Miami to commemorate this event. You can read about it in September 2010 in Seagull One: The Amazing True Story of Brothers to the Rescue
Woke up at 6:15, coffee on the terrace at 6:30, yoga in the yoga shack at 7am. We saw the sunrise as we stretched our bodies into submission, gentle yoga outside in the shack, the frogs croaking and birds singing and the cool breeze swaying the beautiful flowers all around us. Then we had breakfast at the restaurant, to get ready for a day of relaxation.
Spent most of the day on our terrace, just reading and relaxing, the temperature is perfect. We ordered lunch on our terrace and enjoyed it as we watched the employees of the Four Seasons in their blue pants, blue tunics, and pointed straw hats take care of the rice paddies and the grounds of the resort. From our terrace we can see other guests walking on the paths, swimming in the two infinity pools; we can see Mr. Yong and his stepbrother being taken to their shack to eat grass. These are the two water buffaloes on premises that guests can ride if they wish. One is pink and the other grey and they are so clean you wonder if they, too, go to the spa. In fact, they are bathed twice daily. I heard two little girls laughing with one of the staff down by the buffalo shack (they had ridden Mr. Yong and his stepbrother earlier), enjoying the day as part of the Kids Club program they have here. The girls and her parents took a year off to travel the world, homeschool their girls, and appreciate that life is not “about what kind of earings you wear; look at me, now I don’t wear any!” Oh, to go back in time…
Prayer warriors, I did my rosary but not in a Catholic Church as I had intended (I would have had to go into town and search—we’re in the city of 700 temples) but I sent up my petitions from the Church of God, the great outdoors, the universal temple. I figured you can’t get any closer to heaven than the Four Seasons at Chiang Mai.
We had lunch served on our terrace, and I mean, served. They didn’t just drop a tray, they set it up for us, pulled out our chairs, and sat us down. Again, I was reminded of the wonderful lunches we were brought on our jungle terrace in Londolozi, South Africa, back when Merrill Lynch used to pay for these kinds of trips. Amps, I’m trying not to itemize but when I get back home and Quicken this baby, I’m going to need an IV.
After lunch we continued to read and relax and I went to the pool to finish Snow Flower and the Secret Fan, crying my way through the last twenty pages. If the movie does any justice to the book, it will be a hit. The story is so powerful!
Steve stayed in and took a long bath and broke a ceramic bottle with bath gel and I got back and stepped on a piece and bled all over the beautiful marble floor. It wasn’t that dramatic but when the turn-down staff came in, they asked was I OK because they saw all the blood. Here the shampoo, gels, and creams are not in the little plastic bottles that one takes home and then forgets to use and then takes them on trips to other hotels where you steal some more and take them home. Here the liquids are in beautiful ceramic bottles that you want to take home, but don’t.
Had a drink on the hotel terrace—I’ve discovered Thai wine and it’s delicious! We took the hotel shuttle into town and were dropped into the middle of the Night Market. Yes, Ana Rasco, another market, at night! I bought Ryan a little frog that you rub a stick on its back and it makes the sound of the frogs here, like Thai-style Puertorriquen coquis. Except here, they eat the frogs and we would learn all about that at the market the next day.
We took a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled converted mini old school mail truck, open air, motored, adorable thing that goes tuk-tuk) to The House Restaurant, which was a pretty funky place, full of little nooks and rooms to eat in and the food was OK. Still haven’t had “the best of Thailand” dish.
Took the shuttle back to the hotel.
THURSDAY February 25, 2010
Woke up at 6am because we were going to the market at 7 to buy the food for our cooking class. The market just down the road from the hotel would have been closing by 9 because it opens at 3am, when local Thais go to buy what they will make their families for breakfast. It’s not just pop a waffle into the microwave; it’s make congee, the rice dish they have instead of bread, and vegetables and other things. Our companions were this lovely young married couple, she from Ireland and he from India. Their new home would be Dubai. There’s this whole other side of the world which is everyone’s normal, much like North and South America, the Caribbean, and Europe are to us; their normal is the other side of the globe. People talk of places like Hong Kong and Singapore and Dubai and the sixteen countries in India and all the other ---aysia’s like we talk about California and Washington and the Bahamas. It’s fascinating.
The Thai love pork above all other meats, they use every single part of the port, in fact, the dish we would eat later that afternoon was made of pork neck. I had never thought of pigs having necks, just another column of muscle fat from their shoulders (I’ve eaten pork shoulders) to their noses, yet, Miss Piggy did always wear pearls. So we started with all the vegetables and I forget their names, but when you smell them you know now what is the unique scent in most Thai food. One root, galangal, is the most important. The market was immense, with sections for each type of animal, and then a little stand with the frogs, live, trying to hop out of their fish next basket. They looked just like the ones in my yard, except these would be someone’s dinner. Again, they use ALL of the frog, not just the very chi-chi French frog legs. They use the heads, the necks (again with the necks) the legs, etc. We saw the soups of frog parts, soups with innards of every kind of animal. They smelled good, but well, just taste, don’t ask. We got to try the famous Chiang Mai sausage (again, don’t ask) and it was delicious. We had sticky rice with sausage for breakfast, then we went to other stalls and tasted Thai Dunkin Donuts, and other fried yumminesses. Coconut is big, of course, there’s cononut milk in so many dishes, and we bought the coconut milk, just pressed, that we would be using for our dishes.
Cooking at the Four Seasons begins with a prayer in front of the spirit house of the school. Inside are grandparents, the spirits they want to appease. They ask for good cooking, no cuts, no bleeding, good food. After the prayer by one of the sous-chefs, we were given incense sticks to place in front of the spirit house so that our prayers would rise up to them. Our guide at the market had brought an offering for the spirit house, something with chicken blood, which apparently is used more often than we would have ever thought of (nor want to again) in the coloring and flavoring of many Thai dishes..
The cooking school at the Four Seasons rivals anything you’ve seen on Iron Chef or the like. Open air, no walls, and part of the beauty are the immense extractors. Each station has its own set of woks and knives and utensils, as well as four gas burners. We cooked what I had eaten for dinner the night before, a delicious chicken curry with noodles, as well as three other dishes. Then we had a vegetable carving station, so whenever anyone needs red pepper flowers, I can do it. We were given certificates, aprons, and a set of place settings each, which I’ll use when I return home and cook my Thai meal. The only drawback with cooking all this food is that we got to eat it. We ate the first meal with gusto, not realizing that we would cook and eat four more dishes, which of course, we couldn’t even begin to put a dent in. I was so full I almost had to cancel my facial at the spa.
AT 6pm we were invited to the Chef’s table cocktail, where we got to drink more Thai wine and eat again! There was a fourteen course dinner that evening, but we just couldn’t do it, so we went to the hotel restaurant for a light meal and a show at 7:30pm, which was pretty tame—only two female dancers. I wanted the whole “Run, Eliza, Run!” from the King and I.
The new fruit I’ve discovered and love is dragonfruit. It’s a pink fruit a little smaller than a cantaloupe with a crazy flower on top that makes it look like a dragon’s head. Inside it’s white with black polka-dots, the consistency of watermelon. Delicious. The mango here is superb, but not quite as good as the one in my back yard.
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 26, 2010
Very hard to leave this morning. ACTIVE THAILAND guide Pan (“like Peter Pan,” he said) and his driver picked us up at 8am, and off we went to trek in the forest. But first we were in for a long, long, drive up the mountain. Our two days were spent in the Doi Inthanon National Park. Doi means summit or peak or something. The Doi Inthanon is the highest point in all of Thailand and we were there. The view is supposed to be spectacular—you can see the whole country. But not that day because it was a little hazy. It’s very dry and the trekking was difficult because it was so dry, slippery, and full of fallen dried leaves.
On our long trip to Doi Inthanon, we noticed many 7-11’s (the Starbucks of Thailand, even thought there are plenty of Starbuck’s, too.) There is nothing you can’t find here, except a nice toilet at a rest stop, but even though they are usually ceramic holes in the ground with a place for each foot (then you have to squat—don’t try it from a half-knee bend position), they tend to be cleaner than bathrooms in US gas stations. So that’s saying a lot. Next to the ceramic things there is a small tile-lined basin with water, and a big plastic ladle. After you do your business (and it’s really hard for some people to do the second kind of business in such a compromising position) you ladle the water and flush it down. Holes in the ground save money on plumbing, I’m sure. You also don’t have to waste time lining the toilet with layers of paper that keep falling off. It’s just squat and flush.
There are Costco’s here, too, my friends in Miami. And I’m sure in a few years there will be Walmarts. Here Costco is Carrefour and other names, but they’re here.
The Royal Project is one of the King’s special projects to try to get the tribal people to stop growing opium. So now they are organic farmers and it has really cut down the opium trade in the mountains.
Our first stop on the trekking tour was the one-hour elephant ride. Five minutes is all you need. There was a cute baby elephant who reminded me of Ryan. He came up to me and wrapped his trunk around my leg (confusing it for his mother’s) and left baby elephant snot all over it.
Went to the Holy Relics Pagoda inside the National Park, containing relics (called a stupa) of the last King of Chiang Mai, King Inthawichayanon. Then visited the twin pagodas of King Bhumibol Adulyadei and Quyeen Sirkit (I got this off google cos I had already forgotten). The pagodas enshrine Buddha’s ashes and Buddha images and the scenery is spectacular, especially the gardens.
Then we started trekking, real hiking, crossing small rocky rivers on bamboo bridges (I have pictures). We passed Karen women (this is the tribe of people we would stay with) in the fields with their water buffalo, Karen tribes people preparing flowers for the market (again, part of the Royal Project, even though the Karen people were the only tribe to never grow opium).
Arriving at the village we were greeted with the screams, the chilling, horrific screams of a pig about to be slaughtered. There was a wedding in town. Pigs know those screams, and when it isn’t you, you kind of relax into your tether and eat some more slop cos it ain’t your day. All the pigs we passed, and each Karen home has a pig on the ground floor (the ground floor being the actual ground, since all houses are on stilts), gave us a snort of acknowledgement: Welcome. And just in case you’re wondering, I’m not dinner—at least not tonight
The homes in this village are “very simple” as Pan pointed out. Wooden shacks with bamboo walls, outhouses, a pig on the ground floor, a motorcycle in the “car port” and cable TV. Well, I don’t know about cable, but they did have satellite dishes. The village got electricity a few years ago and the kids really wanted TV. There is an unbroken white cord that goes through every house and building in the village that keeps the people connected. This particular village was Buddhist but half the Karen people are Christian. We saw a small church in on of the villages. The married women wear these colorful hand woven sarongs and un-matching colorful v-neck big tops. Underneath they wear sweatpants, of the “cuff at the ankle” variety, and under the big tops polo shirts. Then the outfit is put together with a windbreaker. They were all dressed the same. The unmarried women wear white; the men and children wear whatever they want.
As we walked through the village I wondered where we were sleeping. Pan was never very explicit in what we were doing, what we were eating, or where we were going. We were OK with that. I spotted a nice wooden house down the dirt road and inside I said, “I hope that’s where we’re staying.” Well, it was! It was all wood and the prettiest house on the hill. Our hostess, Yapoh I believe her name was, seemed to me like the head woman of the village. She was probably in her 20s but she was “una electrica.” She had a 7-11 at her home, too. It was actually a little wooden store with things like eggs, and canned goods, and a refrigerator. Her children attended boarding school in town. It may sound very high class, but she cooks in the middle of her one room shack. You might think these people are poor, but they’re not. All the men work, either growing flowers, or farming, or whatever, and they have a middle-man that buys their products. The women stay home with the kids and work all day because there is no plumbing so water for everything has to be hauled up the steps. So, they may have no possessions, but they are not poor.
Less than an hour after our arrival, another mother, maybe 18 years old, came carrying her three year-old daughter whose lip was bleeding. I approached her and asked if she needed a bandaid (of course, using Pan to translate) but when I looked at the little girl, who was not crying but had an unforgettable look of anguish on her face, I noticed that she wasn’t just bleeding a little on the outside of her lip, just a little line of red between her lower lip and chin: she had bitten through her entire lip. I saw the inside and cringed. The little girl, who was carried by her mother, looked and me, took a careful deep breath and then slowly lowered her check on her mother’s shoulder, with such deliberate care so as not to touch any part of the lower half of her face. She was not crying, could not cry, because she was in so much pain. The accident had probably happened an hour earlier because mouth wounds usually bleed terribly. Her wound was clean and there was only a hug swollen lip and all in the insides of the inside of her lip coming out. On the outside was just a small stripe of not blood, but the mark where her entire bottom half of teeth had gone through.
I went into Imperialist-Aggressive-American-Interventionist mode. I had to save this child and I wanted the Marines called in. I wanted to throw opinions and money at the situation and get this little darling the best medical care in the world. I would call the Pentagon, arrange for a helicopter transport, and then take her to Disneyworld. The mother, of course, went to look for husband and then take her child to a clinic where they had government-sponsored medical care. I went and had a good cry.
If I would have gone into Cuban mode, I would have said, “Dame esa niña, mijita, que tu no sabes lo que estás haciendo,” then taken the child and the van and gone off…somewhere.
“Lily, this happens all the time in the village,” said Pan. And I told him I knew that, and it happens in America all the time, too, but he didn’t understand that I thought I knew what was better for that girl than her own mother. He didn’t know how metida and controlling I am. Pan didn’t understand that I had just experienced a defining moment where I recognized how I thought, momentarily and in the heat of the moment, that I was somehow superior because I had more education and money. All mothers know what’s best, no matter their circumstances.
The next morning the little girl came back to our hostesses’ house, with a swollen lip but doing just fine.
After that, I thought I should continue to try to put myself to good use. I wanted to help Yapoh make up our room: sleeping bags, comforters, and a mosquito net on the wood floor, but she wouldn’t let me. I wanted to haul up some water and help her cook; she motioned big with her hands and I thought it meant, come on up, but I think she really meant, I’ll do the cooking around here. Actually, Pan and the driver made our gourmet Thai meal. What was weird about this adventure was that Steve and I always ate alone, whether at the roadside restaurant, or on the floor of our “bed and breakfast.” Pan said they never ate with the guests and I didn’t know how to take that. Were we “unclean”? Well, we were certainly dirty and dusty, but was it more?
For dinner, we had fried pork (maybe the one that greeted us) sliced in what looked like shoestring French fries, but they were pork, and vegetables and rice and chicken curry. Yapoh came up the stairs while we were eating and we gestured how much we loved the meal and she gestured back and we nodded and said thank you. She brought up more rice.
The village had a “headman,” an elected person, and he had access to a PA system that sounded throughout the village. He liked to make announcements.
There was no sobremesa, being that there was no mesa, so we read and then went to sleep early.
Buddhism vs. Animism vs. Shamanism. We (I) continued with the Buddhism topic with Pan. It’s not amazing the similarities with Catholicism on certain things. In some temples, depending on the holiday, they change Buddha’s outfit; in Catholic churches they do this with Mary’s statues. Incense and candles and holy water, praying before images, honoring certain monks/honoring certain saints. The elaborate temples; the elaborate churches.
The story of Buddha is that his mother was impregnated when a white elephant (this their reverence for elephants, particularly white ones) with a lotus flower came in through her side. She gave birth while holding on to a tree (forget which kind) and then Buddha (Sidharttha) came out and took seven steps. And Catholics have a problem with the virgin birth?!
Some Buddhists mix their beliefs with animism. This village had a Shaman, and the villagers practiced different rites than the Buddhists we had seen in Bangkok proper. I meanwhile, was trying to get a handle on what was PURE Buddhism. So Steve made this very wise comment: in order to understand Buddhism is, you have to understand the teachings; look at the teacher, not the followers. Aha!
Imagine what it’s like for Buddhists when they see Christianity: 12,000 Protestant denominations and then the Catholics! Who is confusing whom? Even though in our faith they’re supposed to “know we are Christians by our love, by our love,” it doesn’t usually make us that appealing. War is not such a great expression of love. What I have noticed in Thailand, whether it be because of Buddha or not, is the gentle nature of the people. And no, it’s not just at the five star resorts, because I have yet to see an angry cab driver, or a villager with attitude. The people of Thailand are peaceful, kind, mild-mannered, well-mannered, friendly, and genuine. Maybe it has something to do with never having been colonized.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 27, 2010
“They eat everything here [Thailand] but they don’t eat dog,” Pan told us. Thank goodness cos there was a really strange breed of dog at our hostess’ house.
The roosters started crowing before dawn, but we actually slept pretty well on the floor. It went down to 60 at night so the weather was perfect. At dawn, another pig went screaming to his death, also for the wedding.
We visited two waterfalls: Wachirathan—huge--and Mae Klang Water Fall, smaller yet still beautiful. Wachirathan waterfall, as well as most tourist spots in Thailand are just like in the US: gift shops and coffee shops and entrance fees. The difference in Thailand are the gardens and flowers surrounding all the tourist spots.
As we left the Karen village we noticed a small little town, developed for the eco-tourists, with little bungalows to sleep in, a little shop and small cafes. Amazing, out in the middle of nowhere, but Thailand is ready for tourists. Went to a small shop and bought a Karen village married woman outfit.
Chiang Mai has over 700 temples and we didn’t get to see not a one, because we were consumed by the sensual paganism of the Four Seasons. We did, however, visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of the four royal wats in the north, built in the 14th century. The chedi (a temple without a monk onboard) is all gold and glistens in the sun. Once a year they put the Buddha’s relics in a covered bowl and let water flow over it and everyone can come and collect this “holy water.” There was a monk sitting on a dais there, in his saffron robes, speaking with and blessing the youth with holy water. Seems at this temple they have “monk chats” some days, where you can just hang with them and ask questions. Monks can come in and out of the monkhood, not like priests who are in it for life. They have to beg for their food every day, and whatever they get, they bring back and someone cooks for them. That’s why they can’t be vegetarians because they have to eat whatever is given to them.
Buddhists usually cremate their dead, but the process usually doesn’t involve burning the bones down to ashes. “I have my niece’s bones at home,” said Pan.
We arrived at the Four Seasons with enough time to shower and change and make it on an earlier flight back to Bangkok.
Back at the Mandarin Oriental we were greeted with more flowers, then more orchids in the room and a note that Sunday and Monday were Makha Bucha Day, a holy day observed on the full moon day of the third lunar month, commemorating the spontaneous gathering of the first 1,250 of Lord Buddha’s disciples, and the sermon he gave that day. Can you imagine arriving at the Waldorf Astoria and having a note say something like: today and tomorrow businesses are shut down to honor the birth of Mohammad or the Resurrection of Jesus Christ? Wow.
We had some snacks and drinks at the Bamboo Bar in the hotel and went to bed early.
SUNDAY February 28, 2010
Went to the BEST YOGA CLASS I’ve ever been to while traveling, probably a lot better than most of the yoga in Miami. It ended with shavasana that included laughing! What a great way to start the day.
After breakfast we went to Mass at the Assumption Church right across from the hotel. It was packed! And it was packed with young people. Usually when we go to mass in cities around the world the only congregants are old ladies with rosaries and veils. The kiss of peace was a prayer-hand bow, which is a more germ-free method of peace-giving. It was the priest’s 80th birthday and they sang “Happy Birthday” after the service. What surprised me about the service was that more than half of the people stayed to pray afterwards.
I fear I’m headed for a Mercy Herold situation, where I buy all my gifts at the overpriced airport shops. It’s Sunday afternoon and I still haven’t bought any souvenirs, except for the plastic frog for Ryan.
After mass we went to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, and lit a candle for Noi and her health. We weren’t allowed inside the actual temple because of the holy day. The place was crowded with dignitaries, schools, groups, etc.
Then we went to Art’s neighborhood and walked everywhere he told us to walk, cursing the heat. It is SO hot!!!! We’ve been so spoiled by a cool winter in Miami and here it’s like a Miami August. Came back to the hotel early and just relaxed.
Today is the 14th anniversary of the shoot down, and there are many events taking place in Miami to commemorate this event. You can read about it in September 2010 in Seagull One: The Amazing True Story of Brothers to the Rescue
Woke up at 6:15, coffee on the terrace at 6:30, yoga in the yoga shack at 7am. We saw the sunrise as we stretched our bodies into submission, gentle yoga outside in the shack, the frogs croaking and birds singing and the cool breeze swaying the beautiful flowers all around us. Then we had breakfast at the restaurant, to get ready for a day of relaxation.
Spent most of the day on our terrace, just reading and relaxing, the temperature is perfect. We ordered lunch on our terrace and enjoyed it as we watched the employees of the Four Seasons in their blue pants, blue tunics, and pointed straw hats take care of the rice paddies and the grounds of the resort. From our terrace we can see other guests walking on the paths, swimming in the two infinity pools; we can see Mr. Yong and his stepbrother being taken to their shack to eat grass. These are the two water buffaloes on premises that guests can ride if they wish. One is pink and the other grey and they are so clean you wonder if they, too, go to the spa. In fact, they are bathed twice daily. I heard two little girls laughing with one of the staff down by the buffalo shack (they had ridden Mr. Yong and his stepbrother earlier), enjoying the day as part of the Kids Club program they have here. The girls and her parents took a year off to travel the world, homeschool their girls, and appreciate that life is not “about what kind of earings you wear; look at me, now I don’t wear any!” Oh, to go back in time…
Prayer warriors, I did my rosary but not in a Catholic Church as I had intended (I would have had to go into town and search—we’re in the city of 700 temples) but I sent up my petitions from the Church of God, the great outdoors, the universal temple. I figured you can’t get any closer to heaven than the Four Seasons at Chiang Mai.
We had lunch served on our terrace, and I mean, served. They didn’t just drop a tray, they set it up for us, pulled out our chairs, and sat us down. Again, I was reminded of the wonderful lunches we were brought on our jungle terrace in Londolozi, South Africa, back when Merrill Lynch used to pay for these kinds of trips. Amps, I’m trying not to itemize but when I get back home and Quicken this baby, I’m going to need an IV.
After lunch we continued to read and relax and I went to the pool to finish Snow Flower and the Secret Fan, crying my way through the last twenty pages. If the movie does any justice to the book, it will be a hit. The story is so powerful!
Steve stayed in and took a long bath and broke a ceramic bottle with bath gel and I got back and stepped on a piece and bled all over the beautiful marble floor. It wasn’t that dramatic but when the turn-down staff came in, they asked was I OK because they saw all the blood. Here the shampoo, gels, and creams are not in the little plastic bottles that one takes home and then forgets to use and then takes them on trips to other hotels where you steal some more and take them home. Here the liquids are in beautiful ceramic bottles that you want to take home, but don’t.
Had a drink on the hotel terrace—I’ve discovered Thai wine and it’s delicious! We took the hotel shuttle into town and were dropped into the middle of the Night Market. Yes, Ana Rasco, another market, at night! I bought Ryan a little frog that you rub a stick on its back and it makes the sound of the frogs here, like Thai-style Puertorriquen coquis. Except here, they eat the frogs and we would learn all about that at the market the next day.
We took a tuk-tuk (a three-wheeled converted mini old school mail truck, open air, motored, adorable thing that goes tuk-tuk) to The House Restaurant, which was a pretty funky place, full of little nooks and rooms to eat in and the food was OK. Still haven’t had “the best of Thailand” dish.
Took the shuttle back to the hotel.
THURSDAY February 25, 2010
Woke up at 6am because we were going to the market at 7 to buy the food for our cooking class. The market just down the road from the hotel would have been closing by 9 because it opens at 3am, when local Thais go to buy what they will make their families for breakfast. It’s not just pop a waffle into the microwave; it’s make congee, the rice dish they have instead of bread, and vegetables and other things. Our companions were this lovely young married couple, she from Ireland and he from India. Their new home would be Dubai. There’s this whole other side of the world which is everyone’s normal, much like North and South America, the Caribbean, and Europe are to us; their normal is the other side of the globe. People talk of places like Hong Kong and Singapore and Dubai and the sixteen countries in India and all the other ---aysia’s like we talk about California and Washington and the Bahamas. It’s fascinating.
The Thai love pork above all other meats, they use every single part of the port, in fact, the dish we would eat later that afternoon was made of pork neck. I had never thought of pigs having necks, just another column of muscle fat from their shoulders (I’ve eaten pork shoulders) to their noses, yet, Miss Piggy did always wear pearls. So we started with all the vegetables and I forget their names, but when you smell them you know now what is the unique scent in most Thai food. One root, galangal, is the most important. The market was immense, with sections for each type of animal, and then a little stand with the frogs, live, trying to hop out of their fish next basket. They looked just like the ones in my yard, except these would be someone’s dinner. Again, they use ALL of the frog, not just the very chi-chi French frog legs. They use the heads, the necks (again with the necks) the legs, etc. We saw the soups of frog parts, soups with innards of every kind of animal. They smelled good, but well, just taste, don’t ask. We got to try the famous Chiang Mai sausage (again, don’t ask) and it was delicious. We had sticky rice with sausage for breakfast, then we went to other stalls and tasted Thai Dunkin Donuts, and other fried yumminesses. Coconut is big, of course, there’s cononut milk in so many dishes, and we bought the coconut milk, just pressed, that we would be using for our dishes.
Cooking at the Four Seasons begins with a prayer in front of the spirit house of the school. Inside are grandparents, the spirits they want to appease. They ask for good cooking, no cuts, no bleeding, good food. After the prayer by one of the sous-chefs, we were given incense sticks to place in front of the spirit house so that our prayers would rise up to them. Our guide at the market had brought an offering for the spirit house, something with chicken blood, which apparently is used more often than we would have ever thought of (nor want to again) in the coloring and flavoring of many Thai dishes..
The cooking school at the Four Seasons rivals anything you’ve seen on Iron Chef or the like. Open air, no walls, and part of the beauty are the immense extractors. Each station has its own set of woks and knives and utensils, as well as four gas burners. We cooked what I had eaten for dinner the night before, a delicious chicken curry with noodles, as well as three other dishes. Then we had a vegetable carving station, so whenever anyone needs red pepper flowers, I can do it. We were given certificates, aprons, and a set of place settings each, which I’ll use when I return home and cook my Thai meal. The only drawback with cooking all this food is that we got to eat it. We ate the first meal with gusto, not realizing that we would cook and eat four more dishes, which of course, we couldn’t even begin to put a dent in. I was so full I almost had to cancel my facial at the spa.
AT 6pm we were invited to the Chef’s table cocktail, where we got to drink more Thai wine and eat again! There was a fourteen course dinner that evening, but we just couldn’t do it, so we went to the hotel restaurant for a light meal and a show at 7:30pm, which was pretty tame—only two female dancers. I wanted the whole “Run, Eliza, Run!” from the King and I.
The new fruit I’ve discovered and love is dragonfruit. It’s a pink fruit a little smaller than a cantaloupe with a crazy flower on top that makes it look like a dragon’s head. Inside it’s white with black polka-dots, the consistency of watermelon. Delicious. The mango here is superb, but not quite as good as the one in my back yard.
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 26, 2010
Very hard to leave this morning. ACTIVE THAILAND guide Pan (“like Peter Pan,” he said) and his driver picked us up at 8am, and off we went to trek in the forest. But first we were in for a long, long, drive up the mountain. Our two days were spent in the Doi Inthanon National Park. Doi means summit or peak or something. The Doi Inthanon is the highest point in all of Thailand and we were there. The view is supposed to be spectacular—you can see the whole country. But not that day because it was a little hazy. It’s very dry and the trekking was difficult because it was so dry, slippery, and full of fallen dried leaves.
On our long trip to Doi Inthanon, we noticed many 7-11’s (the Starbucks of Thailand, even thought there are plenty of Starbuck’s, too.) There is nothing you can’t find here, except a nice toilet at a rest stop, but even though they are usually ceramic holes in the ground with a place for each foot (then you have to squat—don’t try it from a half-knee bend position), they tend to be cleaner than bathrooms in US gas stations. So that’s saying a lot. Next to the ceramic things there is a small tile-lined basin with water, and a big plastic ladle. After you do your business (and it’s really hard for some people to do the second kind of business in such a compromising position) you ladle the water and flush it down. Holes in the ground save money on plumbing, I’m sure. You also don’t have to waste time lining the toilet with layers of paper that keep falling off. It’s just squat and flush.
There are Costco’s here, too, my friends in Miami. And I’m sure in a few years there will be Walmarts. Here Costco is Carrefour and other names, but they’re here.
The Royal Project is one of the King’s special projects to try to get the tribal people to stop growing opium. So now they are organic farmers and it has really cut down the opium trade in the mountains.
Our first stop on the trekking tour was the one-hour elephant ride. Five minutes is all you need. There was a cute baby elephant who reminded me of Ryan. He came up to me and wrapped his trunk around my leg (confusing it for his mother’s) and left baby elephant snot all over it.
Went to the Holy Relics Pagoda inside the National Park, containing relics (called a stupa) of the last King of Chiang Mai, King Inthawichayanon. Then visited the twin pagodas of King Bhumibol Adulyadei and Quyeen Sirkit (I got this off google cos I had already forgotten). The pagodas enshrine Buddha’s ashes and Buddha images and the scenery is spectacular, especially the gardens.
Then we started trekking, real hiking, crossing small rocky rivers on bamboo bridges (I have pictures). We passed Karen women (this is the tribe of people we would stay with) in the fields with their water buffalo, Karen tribes people preparing flowers for the market (again, part of the Royal Project, even though the Karen people were the only tribe to never grow opium).
Arriving at the village we were greeted with the screams, the chilling, horrific screams of a pig about to be slaughtered. There was a wedding in town. Pigs know those screams, and when it isn’t you, you kind of relax into your tether and eat some more slop cos it ain’t your day. All the pigs we passed, and each Karen home has a pig on the ground floor (the ground floor being the actual ground, since all houses are on stilts), gave us a snort of acknowledgement: Welcome. And just in case you’re wondering, I’m not dinner—at least not tonight
The homes in this village are “very simple” as Pan pointed out. Wooden shacks with bamboo walls, outhouses, a pig on the ground floor, a motorcycle in the “car port” and cable TV. Well, I don’t know about cable, but they did have satellite dishes. The village got electricity a few years ago and the kids really wanted TV. There is an unbroken white cord that goes through every house and building in the village that keeps the people connected. This particular village was Buddhist but half the Karen people are Christian. We saw a small church in on of the villages. The married women wear these colorful hand woven sarongs and un-matching colorful v-neck big tops. Underneath they wear sweatpants, of the “cuff at the ankle” variety, and under the big tops polo shirts. Then the outfit is put together with a windbreaker. They were all dressed the same. The unmarried women wear white; the men and children wear whatever they want.
As we walked through the village I wondered where we were sleeping. Pan was never very explicit in what we were doing, what we were eating, or where we were going. We were OK with that. I spotted a nice wooden house down the dirt road and inside I said, “I hope that’s where we’re staying.” Well, it was! It was all wood and the prettiest house on the hill. Our hostess, Yapoh I believe her name was, seemed to me like the head woman of the village. She was probably in her 20s but she was “una electrica.” She had a 7-11 at her home, too. It was actually a little wooden store with things like eggs, and canned goods, and a refrigerator. Her children attended boarding school in town. It may sound very high class, but she cooks in the middle of her one room shack. You might think these people are poor, but they’re not. All the men work, either growing flowers, or farming, or whatever, and they have a middle-man that buys their products. The women stay home with the kids and work all day because there is no plumbing so water for everything has to be hauled up the steps. So, they may have no possessions, but they are not poor.
Less than an hour after our arrival, another mother, maybe 18 years old, came carrying her three year-old daughter whose lip was bleeding. I approached her and asked if she needed a bandaid (of course, using Pan to translate) but when I looked at the little girl, who was not crying but had an unforgettable look of anguish on her face, I noticed that she wasn’t just bleeding a little on the outside of her lip, just a little line of red between her lower lip and chin: she had bitten through her entire lip. I saw the inside and cringed. The little girl, who was carried by her mother, looked and me, took a careful deep breath and then slowly lowered her check on her mother’s shoulder, with such deliberate care so as not to touch any part of the lower half of her face. She was not crying, could not cry, because she was in so much pain. The accident had probably happened an hour earlier because mouth wounds usually bleed terribly. Her wound was clean and there was only a hug swollen lip and all in the insides of the inside of her lip coming out. On the outside was just a small stripe of not blood, but the mark where her entire bottom half of teeth had gone through.
I went into Imperialist-Aggressive-American-Interventionist mode. I had to save this child and I wanted the Marines called in. I wanted to throw opinions and money at the situation and get this little darling the best medical care in the world. I would call the Pentagon, arrange for a helicopter transport, and then take her to Disneyworld. The mother, of course, went to look for husband and then take her child to a clinic where they had government-sponsored medical care. I went and had a good cry.
If I would have gone into Cuban mode, I would have said, “Dame esa niña, mijita, que tu no sabes lo que estás haciendo,” then taken the child and the van and gone off…somewhere.
“Lily, this happens all the time in the village,” said Pan. And I told him I knew that, and it happens in America all the time, too, but he didn’t understand that I thought I knew what was better for that girl than her own mother. He didn’t know how metida and controlling I am. Pan didn’t understand that I had just experienced a defining moment where I recognized how I thought, momentarily and in the heat of the moment, that I was somehow superior because I had more education and money. All mothers know what’s best, no matter their circumstances.
The next morning the little girl came back to our hostesses’ house, with a swollen lip but doing just fine.
After that, I thought I should continue to try to put myself to good use. I wanted to help Yapoh make up our room: sleeping bags, comforters, and a mosquito net on the wood floor, but she wouldn’t let me. I wanted to haul up some water and help her cook; she motioned big with her hands and I thought it meant, come on up, but I think she really meant, I’ll do the cooking around here. Actually, Pan and the driver made our gourmet Thai meal. What was weird about this adventure was that Steve and I always ate alone, whether at the roadside restaurant, or on the floor of our “bed and breakfast.” Pan said they never ate with the guests and I didn’t know how to take that. Were we “unclean”? Well, we were certainly dirty and dusty, but was it more?
For dinner, we had fried pork (maybe the one that greeted us) sliced in what looked like shoestring French fries, but they were pork, and vegetables and rice and chicken curry. Yapoh came up the stairs while we were eating and we gestured how much we loved the meal and she gestured back and we nodded and said thank you. She brought up more rice.
The village had a “headman,” an elected person, and he had access to a PA system that sounded throughout the village. He liked to make announcements.
There was no sobremesa, being that there was no mesa, so we read and then went to sleep early.
Buddhism vs. Animism vs. Shamanism. We (I) continued with the Buddhism topic with Pan. It’s not amazing the similarities with Catholicism on certain things. In some temples, depending on the holiday, they change Buddha’s outfit; in Catholic churches they do this with Mary’s statues. Incense and candles and holy water, praying before images, honoring certain monks/honoring certain saints. The elaborate temples; the elaborate churches.
The story of Buddha is that his mother was impregnated when a white elephant (this their reverence for elephants, particularly white ones) with a lotus flower came in through her side. She gave birth while holding on to a tree (forget which kind) and then Buddha (Sidharttha) came out and took seven steps. And Catholics have a problem with the virgin birth?!
Some Buddhists mix their beliefs with animism. This village had a Shaman, and the villagers practiced different rites than the Buddhists we had seen in Bangkok proper. I meanwhile, was trying to get a handle on what was PURE Buddhism. So Steve made this very wise comment: in order to understand Buddhism is, you have to understand the teachings; look at the teacher, not the followers. Aha!
Imagine what it’s like for Buddhists when they see Christianity: 12,000 Protestant denominations and then the Catholics! Who is confusing whom? Even though in our faith they’re supposed to “know we are Christians by our love, by our love,” it doesn’t usually make us that appealing. War is not such a great expression of love. What I have noticed in Thailand, whether it be because of Buddha or not, is the gentle nature of the people. And no, it’s not just at the five star resorts, because I have yet to see an angry cab driver, or a villager with attitude. The people of Thailand are peaceful, kind, mild-mannered, well-mannered, friendly, and genuine. Maybe it has something to do with never having been colonized.
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 27, 2010
“They eat everything here [Thailand] but they don’t eat dog,” Pan told us. Thank goodness cos there was a really strange breed of dog at our hostess’ house.
The roosters started crowing before dawn, but we actually slept pretty well on the floor. It went down to 60 at night so the weather was perfect. At dawn, another pig went screaming to his death, also for the wedding.
We visited two waterfalls: Wachirathan—huge--and Mae Klang Water Fall, smaller yet still beautiful. Wachirathan waterfall, as well as most tourist spots in Thailand are just like in the US: gift shops and coffee shops and entrance fees. The difference in Thailand are the gardens and flowers surrounding all the tourist spots.
As we left the Karen village we noticed a small little town, developed for the eco-tourists, with little bungalows to sleep in, a little shop and small cafes. Amazing, out in the middle of nowhere, but Thailand is ready for tourists. Went to a small shop and bought a Karen village married woman outfit.
Chiang Mai has over 700 temples and we didn’t get to see not a one, because we were consumed by the sensual paganism of the Four Seasons. We did, however, visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of the four royal wats in the north, built in the 14th century. The chedi (a temple without a monk onboard) is all gold and glistens in the sun. Once a year they put the Buddha’s relics in a covered bowl and let water flow over it and everyone can come and collect this “holy water.” There was a monk sitting on a dais there, in his saffron robes, speaking with and blessing the youth with holy water. Seems at this temple they have “monk chats” some days, where you can just hang with them and ask questions. Monks can come in and out of the monkhood, not like priests who are in it for life. They have to beg for their food every day, and whatever they get, they bring back and someone cooks for them. That’s why they can’t be vegetarians because they have to eat whatever is given to them.
Buddhists usually cremate their dead, but the process usually doesn’t involve burning the bones down to ashes. “I have my niece’s bones at home,” said Pan.
We arrived at the Four Seasons with enough time to shower and change and make it on an earlier flight back to Bangkok.
Back at the Mandarin Oriental we were greeted with more flowers, then more orchids in the room and a note that Sunday and Monday were Makha Bucha Day, a holy day observed on the full moon day of the third lunar month, commemorating the spontaneous gathering of the first 1,250 of Lord Buddha’s disciples, and the sermon he gave that day. Can you imagine arriving at the Waldorf Astoria and having a note say something like: today and tomorrow businesses are shut down to honor the birth of Mohammad or the Resurrection of Jesus Christ? Wow.
We had some snacks and drinks at the Bamboo Bar in the hotel and went to bed early.
SUNDAY February 28, 2010
Went to the BEST YOGA CLASS I’ve ever been to while traveling, probably a lot better than most of the yoga in Miami. It ended with shavasana that included laughing! What a great way to start the day.
After breakfast we went to Mass at the Assumption Church right across from the hotel. It was packed! And it was packed with young people. Usually when we go to mass in cities around the world the only congregants are old ladies with rosaries and veils. The kiss of peace was a prayer-hand bow, which is a more germ-free method of peace-giving. It was the priest’s 80th birthday and they sang “Happy Birthday” after the service. What surprised me about the service was that more than half of the people stayed to pray afterwards.
I fear I’m headed for a Mercy Herold situation, where I buy all my gifts at the overpriced airport shops. It’s Sunday afternoon and I still haven’t bought any souvenirs, except for the plastic frog for Ryan.
After mass we went to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, and lit a candle for Noi and her health. We weren’t allowed inside the actual temple because of the holy day. The place was crowded with dignitaries, schools, groups, etc.
Then we went to Art’s neighborhood and walked everywhere he told us to walk, cursing the heat. It is SO hot!!!! We’ve been so spoiled by a cool winter in Miami and here it’s like a Miami August. Came back to the hotel early and just relaxed.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Monday Feb 22 PM-Wednesday Feb 24 AM
Monday, February 21, PM
One plus about the MBK shopping mall (containing seven layers of Dante’s inferno for those anti-shoppers like Steve and I) were the lingerie stores. Since most Thai women are petite, all the bras were small. It was heaven for me, seeing size A’s on display. If I would have needed a bra and ventured forth, I’m sure I would have been pleased to find any bra in any color in my size. I wouldn’t have had to wait while some C-cup employee rummaged through the drawers or “looked in the back” to find my small size. Maybe I’ll go back to MBK, give it up for Lent, save some souls in purgatory and get me some bras.
Thai women are very pretty; the men, not so much. The women have beautiful features, flawless skin, and wonderful smiles. The men, not so much. The women are so petite that while letting my mind wander on the Sky Train I envisioned that I could probably put at least one Thai woman in each of my pant legs, they are so tiny. They are all double-zeros for sure. The Thai men I would not want to put in my pant legs, no where near my pants, actually, but they would probably FIT into my pants, because I officially weigh more than any other Thai man I have seen so far. In fact, I’m taller and heavier than anyone in this country. I don’t know if I should boast about that.
In the evening we walked over to The Dome at State Tower to ride up the elevator to the 64th floor where the Sirocco Restaurant is, and the Sky Bar. There was probably not one single Thai person there, it is a tourist trap, but it is a MUST SEE tourist trap. The most spectacular view of the city EVER, and only, because I don’t think any other building or hotel has such a sky-top view. The Sky Bar is super cool, the drinks the most expensive we’ve ever had, and we didn’t even get a proper buzz. I don’t think you can when you pay $60 for two drinks. Forget about ordering wine in Thailand! It’s so expensive here (a cheap white wine is about $18—a glass) that I’ve had to start drinking alcohol again. Oh well…
On the way there, girlies, I was pulled into a store by a white shirt that called out to me. In less than five minutes (my full attention span for shopping) I bought it and had it readied for alterations. It will forever be my official lucky white linen Thai shirt.
After the drink at the Sky Bar we walked back to the hotel and had dinner at The China House. Girls, it was a Chinese, red, restaurant. I sat as usual so Dad could look out, and guess what? We were in a private cubicle and they CLOSED THE DOOR. Not only that, but there were mirrors all around and overhead, so Dad could only see ME, Me, Me, to infinity and beyond. To anyone else but LB and LA reading this blog, it may contain a few inside jokes. When Dad ordered his Dewar’s 12 we listened to our waiter pronouse twelve with three syllables: ta-wel-veh. It was great. We had Peking duck, a whole duck, and Dad ate at least 132 little crepes with duck. Then I had the most awesome noodle dish. The salad was served in little “tabaquitos” all wrapped up. Here everything is bundled, tied, and presented so delicately you almost want to photograph everything you eat.
When we walked back to the sumptuous lobby of the Mandarin Oriental I realized I had mis-described the lobby. There is no rattan here, the rattan is in the Bamboo Bar, where the chairs are all upholstered in animal prints. Gorgeous. The lobby is all wood furniture and the coffee tables look like low mahjong (sp?) tables, beautiful. In fact, at Jim Thompson’s house, since back in the day (1950s) there were no eating tables, he made his dining room out of two real mahjong tables. Factoid.
Tuesday, February 22, 2010 AM
Breakfast by the liver again. I ordered water and they brought me a waffle. I need to pronounce the “t” in water like the English do to avoid further confusion.
Tick picked us up. He said that was his nickname (he kept making an air check-mark whenever he said it, like we wouldn’t understand, and the only way we “got it” is because we know the English use ‘tick’ for a check mark, became most Americans would associate tick with the flea) from his real name that began with Th-----, but that some of his Thai friends pronounced it Thedick, and we could pronounce it that way if we wanted, but I didn’t want to. It made me think of…Richard Nixon. We also learned that the Thai usually call each other by nicknames, that they may know someone for years and never really know their name or surname. We were told that Noi means small, so now we know one of the Winters’ inside jokes.
I loved the history lesson on the way to the Grand Palace about all the Ramas. The current king is Rama 8, who is now 83 years old and was born in Boston. Of course my favorite Rama was the one played by Yul Brenner in the King and I. I have hum torture of “Shall we dance?”.
We also got the scoop on changing the name place from Siam (pronounced See-am) to Thailand. Siam was the name apparently the Portugese gave it, meaning brown. Thailand means freedom, and they are the only Asian country to never have been colonized.
Toured the Grand Palace, and for the ignorant like me it was like Epcot on steroids, but real. There are demon guards and angels everywhere, and the ornate-ness of it all certainly earns this area the adjective “grand.” The curlicues on the tops of the temples are really shapes of mythical birds and ONLY temples can have these specific birds on them.
At the entrance to the temple of the Emerald Buddha there is a big water basin. Here you dip a lotus flower in the water and sprinkle your hair for good luck. It’s just like the Catholics and the little holy water bowls at the entrance to our churches, where you bless yourself before entering. Inside, way up on many pedestals was the emerald Buddha, made out of a single piece of jade. Amazing.
Buddhism: a philosophy or a religion? We spent (I spent) a lot of time asking Tick questions about Buddhism, a lot of “why” questions. Which is the whole counter-point to Buddhism, not asking “why.” But I persisted. Angels are everywhere: where did they come from? Do you believe in a creator God? If not, where did all these angels come from? Who made them? Buddhist angels don't look like Christian angels. They wear cool pointed hats rather than haloes. They are everywhere inside the temple, hundreds of thousands painted by hand, beautiful faces, protecting everywhere. Tick said the Hindu influence of Buddhism in Thailand has merged what was originally intended as a way of life into a religion. Before, people didn’t worship Buddha as they do know. It’s kind of like the Virgin Mary. Catholics will admit the Church says you don’t worship Mary, but people do anyway. They bow to her, make offerings to her, etc., just like Buddha. Also there is only ONE Buddha, like the Virgin Mary. People think there are many Marys, I told Tick, but she’s the same, just different outfits.
Tick was very patient with me and my questions, but I am truly fascinated. You can not argue with people who are so calm, so nice, so well-mannered, so peaceful. Why?
We then went on a canal (klong) tour on a long-tail boat, or the “James Bond boat” as it’s referred to. It’s a long teak boat, pointed in the front, and the motor looks like a big 8-cylinder car engine, without a transmission, direct-drive into the propeller, which is why it has such a long shaft (according to Steve, I have no idea), and they go fast (which explains why 007 would have used it). Exploring the klongs of Bangkok, you see the stilt houses right on the river, piers that lead you to exquisite temples, little spirit houses protecting the homes, restaurants, and all manner of boats and barges conducting business. A woman had a little kiosk-full of items (la mierda that Ana Rasco loves to buy) and I bought a little elephant for Ryan.
We returned to the hotel to leave off some laundry and head out for Chiang Mai.
Tuesday, February 22 – arrival in Chiang Mai
What is more comforting than arriving at an airport and seeing your name on a sign? Then being ushered to a waiting Range Rover with cold towels smelling of mint? Cold bottles of water waiting for you? What could be better than that? All of that and maybe chocolate on top.
The Four Seasons at Chiang Mai is so beautiful it hurts. The reception area is open, revealing below the mini valley that is the grounds of the resort, full of rice paddies and people working in them. The ride from the airport to the resort revealed a very dry landscape, and it is quite a ways from the city. Who cares? Who would want to leave this place? Ever? Here it is a green oasis, women watering the jungle-like retreat we will live in for the next three days. We will try to stretch out every minute. Our room was huge, spacious, greeting cards everywhere and springs rolls, too. When we opened the doors from our bedroom, it led to a little walkway and our own covered terrace, overlooking the rice paddies, the ponds, the resort pools, the other bungalows, the yoga shack. It’s so beautiful, so beautiful. You hear other guests repeat the same mantra that doesn’t leave your mind: I don’t want to leave here, I don’t want to leave here.
When we went back to the lobby, a golf cart awaited to take us to our massages. There were two water buffaloes there, just hanging, a pink one and a grey one. I saw them the next day eating dried leaves. Better than a rake, that’s for damn sure.
I felt yucky from the morning tour so I said I wanted to take a shower before the massage. Well, the massage therapist ran the water for me, in an outside shower, it was wonderful. The massage was beyond any I’d ever had. She dripped so much oil over me I felt anointed, like King David or something, it was holy. The hole you look through in the massage table, when you usually spend ½ the time looking at the floor? Not here. There’s a beautiful bowl there, with three roses floating in water. Details, details, everywhere in Thailand. If they bring you something on a small tray, you can bet there’ll be an orchid on it. The flower arrangements in the big urns everywhere are a color explosion, and usually symmetrical. The lobby flower arrangement is nothing more than a huge bowl full of lotus flowers. What more do you need? Everything here is a sensual experience. After the massages we raided the mini bar and had a drink on our terrace. The lights around the resort sparked, it was magical. The closest thing to this that we’ve experienced were the treetop bungalows at Londolozi in South Africa. This was even more beautiful, and without the threat of lions or crazy monkeys attacking you at night.
Dinner at the hotel restaurant was wonderful, a banana spring roll for dessert. Yumm.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Today is the 14th anniversary of the shoot down, and there are many events taking place in Miami to commemorate this event. You can read about it in September 2010 in Seagull One: The Amazing True Story of Brothers to the Rescue
Woke up at 6:15, coffee on the terrace at 6:30, yoga in
One plus about the MBK shopping mall (containing seven layers of Dante’s inferno for those anti-shoppers like Steve and I) were the lingerie stores. Since most Thai women are petite, all the bras were small. It was heaven for me, seeing size A’s on display. If I would have needed a bra and ventured forth, I’m sure I would have been pleased to find any bra in any color in my size. I wouldn’t have had to wait while some C-cup employee rummaged through the drawers or “looked in the back” to find my small size. Maybe I’ll go back to MBK, give it up for Lent, save some souls in purgatory and get me some bras.
Thai women are very pretty; the men, not so much. The women have beautiful features, flawless skin, and wonderful smiles. The men, not so much. The women are so petite that while letting my mind wander on the Sky Train I envisioned that I could probably put at least one Thai woman in each of my pant legs, they are so tiny. They are all double-zeros for sure. The Thai men I would not want to put in my pant legs, no where near my pants, actually, but they would probably FIT into my pants, because I officially weigh more than any other Thai man I have seen so far. In fact, I’m taller and heavier than anyone in this country. I don’t know if I should boast about that.
In the evening we walked over to The Dome at State Tower to ride up the elevator to the 64th floor where the Sirocco Restaurant is, and the Sky Bar. There was probably not one single Thai person there, it is a tourist trap, but it is a MUST SEE tourist trap. The most spectacular view of the city EVER, and only, because I don’t think any other building or hotel has such a sky-top view. The Sky Bar is super cool, the drinks the most expensive we’ve ever had, and we didn’t even get a proper buzz. I don’t think you can when you pay $60 for two drinks. Forget about ordering wine in Thailand! It’s so expensive here (a cheap white wine is about $18—a glass) that I’ve had to start drinking alcohol again. Oh well…
On the way there, girlies, I was pulled into a store by a white shirt that called out to me. In less than five minutes (my full attention span for shopping) I bought it and had it readied for alterations. It will forever be my official lucky white linen Thai shirt.
After the drink at the Sky Bar we walked back to the hotel and had dinner at The China House. Girls, it was a Chinese, red, restaurant. I sat as usual so Dad could look out, and guess what? We were in a private cubicle and they CLOSED THE DOOR. Not only that, but there were mirrors all around and overhead, so Dad could only see ME, Me, Me, to infinity and beyond. To anyone else but LB and LA reading this blog, it may contain a few inside jokes. When Dad ordered his Dewar’s 12 we listened to our waiter pronouse twelve with three syllables: ta-wel-veh. It was great. We had Peking duck, a whole duck, and Dad ate at least 132 little crepes with duck. Then I had the most awesome noodle dish. The salad was served in little “tabaquitos” all wrapped up. Here everything is bundled, tied, and presented so delicately you almost want to photograph everything you eat.
When we walked back to the sumptuous lobby of the Mandarin Oriental I realized I had mis-described the lobby. There is no rattan here, the rattan is in the Bamboo Bar, where the chairs are all upholstered in animal prints. Gorgeous. The lobby is all wood furniture and the coffee tables look like low mahjong (sp?) tables, beautiful. In fact, at Jim Thompson’s house, since back in the day (1950s) there were no eating tables, he made his dining room out of two real mahjong tables. Factoid.
Tuesday, February 22, 2010 AM
Breakfast by the liver again. I ordered water and they brought me a waffle. I need to pronounce the “t” in water like the English do to avoid further confusion.
Tick picked us up. He said that was his nickname (he kept making an air check-mark whenever he said it, like we wouldn’t understand, and the only way we “got it” is because we know the English use ‘tick’ for a check mark, became most Americans would associate tick with the flea) from his real name that began with Th-----, but that some of his Thai friends pronounced it Thedick, and we could pronounce it that way if we wanted, but I didn’t want to. It made me think of…Richard Nixon. We also learned that the Thai usually call each other by nicknames, that they may know someone for years and never really know their name or surname. We were told that Noi means small, so now we know one of the Winters’ inside jokes.
I loved the history lesson on the way to the Grand Palace about all the Ramas. The current king is Rama 8, who is now 83 years old and was born in Boston. Of course my favorite Rama was the one played by Yul Brenner in the King and I. I have hum torture of “Shall we dance?”.
We also got the scoop on changing the name place from Siam (pronounced See-am) to Thailand. Siam was the name apparently the Portugese gave it, meaning brown. Thailand means freedom, and they are the only Asian country to never have been colonized.
Toured the Grand Palace, and for the ignorant like me it was like Epcot on steroids, but real. There are demon guards and angels everywhere, and the ornate-ness of it all certainly earns this area the adjective “grand.” The curlicues on the tops of the temples are really shapes of mythical birds and ONLY temples can have these specific birds on them.
At the entrance to the temple of the Emerald Buddha there is a big water basin. Here you dip a lotus flower in the water and sprinkle your hair for good luck. It’s just like the Catholics and the little holy water bowls at the entrance to our churches, where you bless yourself before entering. Inside, way up on many pedestals was the emerald Buddha, made out of a single piece of jade. Amazing.
Buddhism: a philosophy or a religion? We spent (I spent) a lot of time asking Tick questions about Buddhism, a lot of “why” questions. Which is the whole counter-point to Buddhism, not asking “why.” But I persisted. Angels are everywhere: where did they come from? Do you believe in a creator God? If not, where did all these angels come from? Who made them? Buddhist angels don't look like Christian angels. They wear cool pointed hats rather than haloes. They are everywhere inside the temple, hundreds of thousands painted by hand, beautiful faces, protecting everywhere. Tick said the Hindu influence of Buddhism in Thailand has merged what was originally intended as a way of life into a religion. Before, people didn’t worship Buddha as they do know. It’s kind of like the Virgin Mary. Catholics will admit the Church says you don’t worship Mary, but people do anyway. They bow to her, make offerings to her, etc., just like Buddha. Also there is only ONE Buddha, like the Virgin Mary. People think there are many Marys, I told Tick, but she’s the same, just different outfits.
Tick was very patient with me and my questions, but I am truly fascinated. You can not argue with people who are so calm, so nice, so well-mannered, so peaceful. Why?
We then went on a canal (klong) tour on a long-tail boat, or the “James Bond boat” as it’s referred to. It’s a long teak boat, pointed in the front, and the motor looks like a big 8-cylinder car engine, without a transmission, direct-drive into the propeller, which is why it has such a long shaft (according to Steve, I have no idea), and they go fast (which explains why 007 would have used it). Exploring the klongs of Bangkok, you see the stilt houses right on the river, piers that lead you to exquisite temples, little spirit houses protecting the homes, restaurants, and all manner of boats and barges conducting business. A woman had a little kiosk-full of items (la mierda that Ana Rasco loves to buy) and I bought a little elephant for Ryan.
We returned to the hotel to leave off some laundry and head out for Chiang Mai.
Tuesday, February 22 – arrival in Chiang Mai
What is more comforting than arriving at an airport and seeing your name on a sign? Then being ushered to a waiting Range Rover with cold towels smelling of mint? Cold bottles of water waiting for you? What could be better than that? All of that and maybe chocolate on top.
The Four Seasons at Chiang Mai is so beautiful it hurts. The reception area is open, revealing below the mini valley that is the grounds of the resort, full of rice paddies and people working in them. The ride from the airport to the resort revealed a very dry landscape, and it is quite a ways from the city. Who cares? Who would want to leave this place? Ever? Here it is a green oasis, women watering the jungle-like retreat we will live in for the next three days. We will try to stretch out every minute. Our room was huge, spacious, greeting cards everywhere and springs rolls, too. When we opened the doors from our bedroom, it led to a little walkway and our own covered terrace, overlooking the rice paddies, the ponds, the resort pools, the other bungalows, the yoga shack. It’s so beautiful, so beautiful. You hear other guests repeat the same mantra that doesn’t leave your mind: I don’t want to leave here, I don’t want to leave here.
When we went back to the lobby, a golf cart awaited to take us to our massages. There were two water buffaloes there, just hanging, a pink one and a grey one. I saw them the next day eating dried leaves. Better than a rake, that’s for damn sure.
I felt yucky from the morning tour so I said I wanted to take a shower before the massage. Well, the massage therapist ran the water for me, in an outside shower, it was wonderful. The massage was beyond any I’d ever had. She dripped so much oil over me I felt anointed, like King David or something, it was holy. The hole you look through in the massage table, when you usually spend ½ the time looking at the floor? Not here. There’s a beautiful bowl there, with three roses floating in water. Details, details, everywhere in Thailand. If they bring you something on a small tray, you can bet there’ll be an orchid on it. The flower arrangements in the big urns everywhere are a color explosion, and usually symmetrical. The lobby flower arrangement is nothing more than a huge bowl full of lotus flowers. What more do you need? Everything here is a sensual experience. After the massages we raided the mini bar and had a drink on our terrace. The lights around the resort sparked, it was magical. The closest thing to this that we’ve experienced were the treetop bungalows at Londolozi in South Africa. This was even more beautiful, and without the threat of lions or crazy monkeys attacking you at night.
Dinner at the hotel restaurant was wonderful, a banana spring roll for dessert. Yumm.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Today is the 14th anniversary of the shoot down, and there are many events taking place in Miami to commemorate this event. You can read about it in September 2010 in Seagull One: The Amazing True Story of Brothers to the Rescue
Woke up at 6:15, coffee on the terrace at 6:30, yoga in
Monday, February 22, 2010
Saturday February 20, 2010
Left Miami to Dallas, headed for Bangkok. Girls and Ryan took us to the airport. I already miss him.
Flying is going to be great because we’re upgraded the whole way. Flight from Dallas to Tokyo long, especially since sleeping pills didn’t kick in, so we barely slept. Meal service was wonderful and the seats that extend into beds were great. It would have been nice to sleep, but…Saw The Blind Side and The Boys are Back, both great movies, plus watched a lot of mindless TV. Started reading Snow Flower to get in the mood for Chica. Great book, horrible accounts of the foot bindings.
Sunday February 21, 2010
Landed Tokyo and enjoyed the wonderful baths at Admirals Club. The airport is sparkling clean, but it is so hot! They have the heater on a little too warm.
Arrived Bangkok right on schedule, the flight from Tokyo seemed longer than the first leg of our flight, I guess since we're so tired. We ordered the Japanese meal service on the Japan Airlines flight, and I couldn't eat most of it: little eyes kept staring at me.
The airport in Bangkok a steel and glass modern magnificence, very clean and high tech.
When Sam, our white suited chauffeur from the Mandarin arrived in his black BMW 7 Series, I knew this was going to be one amazing vacation. Arriving at the Oriental, getting our first prayer-hand bows from the valet staff, made the jetlag disappear. At registration we were given flowers, what looked like a bracelet-size circle of jasmine with purple orchids hanging down. More bows, more low voice, excellent and personal service.
I know I"m going to run in to Humphrey Bogart in the reception area one day. Hanging lanterns, breathtaking flower arrangements, orchids everywhere, comfortable and inviting rattan and wood furniture, plush sofas, an air of elegance.
The room is lovely, with a view of the river (pronounced liver) and the city. More orchids in the room, yellow on the desk, purple in the bathroom, white on the bureau. A plate of fruit that will be changed every day. In the bathroom, amenities galore.
We each took 3 melatonins and a sleeping pill, and we slept until 7am.
Monday, February 22
The buffet breakfast was spectacular, different stations with everything from ham and bacon and eggs, to fried rice, dumplings, and fish, to pancakes and omlettes, etc. The fruit in Bangkok is so delicious and fresh and in season. Breakfast is served on the open-air terrace of the Mandarin, right on the river, so you can watch the boats and klongs, and area businessmen doing what they know best.
The staff at the valet and in the restaurants (the lower-end staff) dress in their traditional outfits, like the sons of the King of Siam. After I meet Humphrey Bogart, I'll look for Yule Brenner and dance. I want to be Anna, but without the hoops. Actually the hoops would help hide a multitude of hips.
After breakfast we took a klong to the BTS, the Skyway, like the Miami metrorail, but cleaner. We went to Jim Thompson's house, the Thai home of an American that revived the silk industry here, and was also responsible for the silks used in The King and I. A beautiful home, made of several different pagodas, all made of teak, open air, beautiful.
Then we walked to MBK shopping center, seven stories of Chinatown meets International Mall under air conditioning, a haven and heaven for Ana Rasco. On the suggestion of Art, we walked around and then ate in the food court, some good Thai food. Then we couldn't wait to book it out of there, having bought nothing.
Took the BTC back to near our hotel and walked around the back neighborhoods. Walked through the grounds of a Thai elementary school, complete with its own temples inside the school, and we could hear the happy chanting of children memorizing...something. We saw them walking the halls in their socks.
Then we walked through Assumption College, a high school for boys and girls. Everywhere in the mall we had seen the Thai school girls in their blue skirts and white shirts, doing what teenage girls do: buy smoothies and walk around the mall. The Assumption girls had the same blue pleated skirts, but more teal-blue, worn with white shirts and blue ties, white socks and black Mary Janes. The boys wore the same color shorts, white short sleeved shirts and white mid-high socks with pointed black tie shoes. Wierd, the boys' uniform.
Now, Steve is enjoying his first of many Thai massages while I rest in the room, overlooking the river, and the sights of this fantastic, but oh so hot, city.
Left Miami to Dallas, headed for Bangkok. Girls and Ryan took us to the airport. I already miss him.
Flying is going to be great because we’re upgraded the whole way. Flight from Dallas to Tokyo long, especially since sleeping pills didn’t kick in, so we barely slept. Meal service was wonderful and the seats that extend into beds were great. It would have been nice to sleep, but…Saw The Blind Side and The Boys are Back, both great movies, plus watched a lot of mindless TV. Started reading Snow Flower to get in the mood for Chica. Great book, horrible accounts of the foot bindings.
Sunday February 21, 2010
Landed Tokyo and enjoyed the wonderful baths at Admirals Club. The airport is sparkling clean, but it is so hot! They have the heater on a little too warm.
Arrived Bangkok right on schedule, the flight from Tokyo seemed longer than the first leg of our flight, I guess since we're so tired. We ordered the Japanese meal service on the Japan Airlines flight, and I couldn't eat most of it: little eyes kept staring at me.
The airport in Bangkok a steel and glass modern magnificence, very clean and high tech.
When Sam, our white suited chauffeur from the Mandarin arrived in his black BMW 7 Series, I knew this was going to be one amazing vacation. Arriving at the Oriental, getting our first prayer-hand bows from the valet staff, made the jetlag disappear. At registration we were given flowers, what looked like a bracelet-size circle of jasmine with purple orchids hanging down. More bows, more low voice, excellent and personal service.
I know I"m going to run in to Humphrey Bogart in the reception area one day. Hanging lanterns, breathtaking flower arrangements, orchids everywhere, comfortable and inviting rattan and wood furniture, plush sofas, an air of elegance.
The room is lovely, with a view of the river (pronounced liver) and the city. More orchids in the room, yellow on the desk, purple in the bathroom, white on the bureau. A plate of fruit that will be changed every day. In the bathroom, amenities galore.
We each took 3 melatonins and a sleeping pill, and we slept until 7am.
Monday, February 22
The buffet breakfast was spectacular, different stations with everything from ham and bacon and eggs, to fried rice, dumplings, and fish, to pancakes and omlettes, etc. The fruit in Bangkok is so delicious and fresh and in season. Breakfast is served on the open-air terrace of the Mandarin, right on the river, so you can watch the boats and klongs, and area businessmen doing what they know best.
The staff at the valet and in the restaurants (the lower-end staff) dress in their traditional outfits, like the sons of the King of Siam. After I meet Humphrey Bogart, I'll look for Yule Brenner and dance. I want to be Anna, but without the hoops. Actually the hoops would help hide a multitude of hips.
After breakfast we took a klong to the BTS, the Skyway, like the Miami metrorail, but cleaner. We went to Jim Thompson's house, the Thai home of an American that revived the silk industry here, and was also responsible for the silks used in The King and I. A beautiful home, made of several different pagodas, all made of teak, open air, beautiful.
Then we walked to MBK shopping center, seven stories of Chinatown meets International Mall under air conditioning, a haven and heaven for Ana Rasco. On the suggestion of Art, we walked around and then ate in the food court, some good Thai food. Then we couldn't wait to book it out of there, having bought nothing.
Took the BTC back to near our hotel and walked around the back neighborhoods. Walked through the grounds of a Thai elementary school, complete with its own temples inside the school, and we could hear the happy chanting of children memorizing...something. We saw them walking the halls in their socks.
Then we walked through Assumption College, a high school for boys and girls. Everywhere in the mall we had seen the Thai school girls in their blue skirts and white shirts, doing what teenage girls do: buy smoothies and walk around the mall. The Assumption girls had the same blue pleated skirts, but more teal-blue, worn with white shirts and blue ties, white socks and black Mary Janes. The boys wore the same color shorts, white short sleeved shirts and white mid-high socks with pointed black tie shoes. Wierd, the boys' uniform.
Now, Steve is enjoying his first of many Thai massages while I rest in the room, overlooking the river, and the sights of this fantastic, but oh so hot, city.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)